See what Wittels and Hermesch have to say on:

Absinthe the drink

Despite its revival, the origins, character, and contents of absinthe seem to have become obscured with the passage of time. Absinthe is a potent herbal liquor, historically ranging from 55 to 75 percent (up to 150 proof) in alcoholic strength. Its infamous green tint traditionally resulted from the presence of chlorophyll, although the artificially derived colors of modern interpretations tend to vary along a glittery spectrum of green, gold, brown, and even red. Sometimes pale and medicinal, other times emerald and herbal, absinthe’s unique appearance contributes to its worldwide mystique.

Equally famous is the peculiar louching effect that occurs when cool water is 'dripped into the drink (a necessary step, as drinking absinthe neat can result in gratuitous tears and choking due to the intense taste). Upon the addition of water, the transparent green tint slowly transforms into a milky white cloud. This effect occurs as essential oils precipitate, releasing a bouquet of hidden aromas and subtle flavours.

Effects of absinthe

There have also been explorations into the cumulative effects of thujone on the brain. What are the consequences of habitual use of absinthe? Studies conducted on rats in the 1960s found that a daily diet of ten milligrams per day resulted in 5 percent accumulation. After approximately five weeks, many of the rats began experiencing convulsions. There have also been documented cases of humans who experienced similar reactions after having unwittingly imbibed essences containing thujone for several days. However, in no way does this prove or disprove that prolonged absinthe use will result in such unfavourable medical conditions.

Relevant or not, since the commercial absinthes of today rarely contain more than ten milligrams of thujone (in accordance with European beverage quality laws), absinthes produced and marketed to modern consumers will unlikely develop an ominous reputation of driving drinkers to criminal acts or the madhouse. But regardless of the various findings, continuous use of any drug over long periods of time takes its toll on both the mind and body.

Wormwood

Absinthe is distilled from anise, fennel, hyssop, Melissa, juniper, chamomile, and other herbs. The herb selection, proportion, and preparation are important parts of each distiller's secret recipe. But the principal herbal constituent of absinthe is Artemisia absinthium (Grand Wormwood), a plant whose purported medicinal properties are as hotly debated as the drink itself. A perennial aromatic shrub, wormwood grows wild along roadsides, fence lines, pastures, and fallow fields. Its appearance is characterized by dark, slender, green leaves covered with soft gray hairs and velvety undersides.

In ancient times, wormwood was valued for its medicinal properties where it was employed as a vermifuge, flea and moth repellent, insecticide, digestive aid, and an aid to ease menstrual cramps. During the Middle Ages, it was believed to protect against plague and other demonic maladies. Today, in addition to absinthe, extracts of wormwood are used as counter-irritants in over-the-counter pharmaceuticals. Regardless of its use throughout the years, wormwood has continually received cautionary documentation. The careless use of the herb can be dangerous, though the levels and effects of wormwood’s toxicity to humans have yet to be scientifically evaluated.

Thujone

At the heart of the mystery surrounding absinthe is the compound thujone. It is classified as a monoterpene, which is a class of molecules found in the essences of various plants and flowers. Found in wormwood and a vast array of other plants, herbs, and spices, thujone is a colorless liquid with a heady menthol-like odor.

Thujone has been shown through in vitro laboratory studies that it may affect certain elements of brain chemistry. Scientists once hypothesized that thujone bound itself to the brain’s cannabinoid receptors, resulting in sensations similar to those experienced by smoking marijuana. This theory was based on the similarities in molecular structure between thujone and tetrahydrocanol (THC, the active component in marijuana). Despite this similarity, a study in 1997 by Meschler, Marsh, and Howlett conclusively debunked this theory, proving that thujone does not bind with cannabinoid receptors.

Historical absintheurs

From his studio in the Rue Lavoisier, Edouard Manet ventured into the famous Tortoni’s Café, drinking absinthe with Gustave Courbet, Charles Baudelaire, and other members of the avant guard. Like Baudelaire, Manet became known for his extravagant dress and the two became fast friends. More than a kindred spirit, Baudelaire would become a mentor and the subject of some of the painter’s work.

Manet painted what he saw in contemporary life. Despite the excellence of his work, Manet’s portrait, The Absinthe Drinker, was excluded from the prestigious Salon of Paris in 1859. The Salon was the definitive show for Paris’ crème de la crème of artists, intellectuals, and socialites. Baudelaire, who was present when news of the rejection came, believed there was nothing the artist could do other than remain true to his vision.

Manet had, indeed, painted what he saw and became pivotal in the emergence of modern painting. The image depicted a seedy, unkempt man standing stridently beside his last glass of absinthe, the spent bottle at his feet. Strikingly rendered, it was a stark portrayal of a local drunkard named Collardet. Paris’ establishment was not yet prepared to unveil quite such a truthful image of the city’s underbelly. Even fellow artists were taken aback by Manet’s lack of sentimentality and social value.